Update: Check out ESFB’s Guide to Eating in Tulum.
Whatever happened to the paleta man?
Back in the 80s, in some Los Angeles neighborhoods, the guy pushing his little cart of Mexican popsicles down the street was a common sight. Both of my grandmothers—one born in Mexico and one born in East LA—were crazy for paletas, and I could always count on their hurriedly shoving money in my hand while shouting flavor requests whenever we heard the bell.
“Fresa con leche! Limon! Piña!” Sure, my Spanish was pretty limited, but I could perfectly pronounce and identify any of the flavors once the paleta man took the lid off and let me peer into his frosty icebox on wheels. You just had to wait a few seconds for the cold smoke to settle, so you could focus on the selection.
Then something happened. Maybe Mexican grandmas got more Americanized? I don’t know, but while you still see the guys with the carts, these days they’re hawking basic ice cream man fare: mostly just cartoon characters in artificially-flavored “ice cream” form. Sometimes they have a few frostbitten paletas sticking to the cart walls, but…no thanks.
It’s my nostalgia for those long gone days that makes my heart race for Flor de Michoacan, a paleteria/juice parlor that makes paletas of which dreams are made. The only thing is that it’s in Mexico. In Tulum, to be exact. Lucky for me, I just spent a week in this beachside town on the east coast of the Yucatan peninsula. This was my third visit to Tulum, but probably my tenth to Flor de Michoacan—it’s pretty addictive.
Flor de Michoacan offers fresh juices, gelato, sundaes and banana splits, but once I’m walk through the fruit-lined storefront, I always make a beeline for the paleta freezer. The colorful presentation takes my breath away and makes the task of choosing kind of excruciating. This time around, we tried a few: the coconut, the sweet hot mango-chile, a pudding-pop textured chocolate, and rice milk dipped in rich chocolate and sprinkled with coconut. Phew! I’m a little breathless just thinking about it.
I know a lot of hyperbole gets thrown around on food blogs, but I can honestly say these paletas are the best I’ve ever had. The flavors are very authentic, so if you ask for the coconut, you get a paleta that’s about 75% shredded coconut. Same with the chile mango—you bite into it, and it’s like you’re biting into a frozen mango, but sweeter and spicier. My goal is try all of them, especially showboats like the strawberry-kiwi and those frozen bananas.
If you ever find yourself in Tulum, check this place out. If you have fond paleta memories, Flor de Michoacan will make you feel all warm and fuzzy. I know my grandmothers would be in heaven.
Here are a few extra photos:
[cincopa AcLAxb6jX3Mh]
More Tulum culinary finds to come, so keep checking in.
-Valentina
Flor de Michoacan
Avenida Tulum,
Tulum, Mexico
{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }
Can’t get them in L.A.? What a tease! Someone needs to bring these back.
The fanciest paleta I ever had had bubble gum in it, heh.
I know! I’ve been to a few paleterias in town, but none have compared to Flor de Michoacan. I think I’m going to do an exploratory mission.
These look to too good. Please do let us all know once you find good paletas in LA.
There used to be a great place with paletas near Central and Slauson in South LA, they don’t sell to the public anymore though, or I think its just a paletero cart storage place now. Anyways it was called Paletas Michoacan of course. I just read an awesome book about the history of Paletas in Michoacan. Its called True tales in Another Mexico, you guys should check it out super interesting.
@ Albert: Thank you so much for that info! I’m going to buy that book right away. Let me know if you know any other paleta places. I hear there’s one downtown.
Are there paletas that are dairy-free at the Flor de Michoacan in Tulum? We will be traveling with our daughter who can’t have dairy and I wanted to check be for I got her hopes up.
@sparklegem–they sure do! They have juice paletas without any milk. Enjoy and have a great trip! Tulum is beautiful.
Excellente!! I am sure that we will find a reason to stop by Flor de Michoacan every day when we are down there. I love Tulum, too! I have not been down for quite a few years and hope that it has not changed toooo much.
Best wishes,
Gem
i have been to the flor de michoacan and it is great, but i wondered if you know if they have an e mail or web page
thanks
@gloria–no, i don’t think they do. It’s such a small operation. Glad you like it, too.
Thank you so much for sharing this link with me! Your photos are great and has me even more excited to visit Tulum one day (hopefully soon). I too grew up waiting for the bells of the paleta man. I grew up in San Gabriel/Alhambra in the SGV and there was no shortage of delicious paletas on wheels, but now they are few and far between, just like you mentioned. These days I hit up “Super A” for paletas de Michoacan and though they’re no longer 50cents, I still enjoy them.
BTW, where was your abuelita born in Mexico?
P.S. Did your mom not teach you Spanish? If so, I am in the same boat but have spent much of my adult life trying really hard to pick it up. I think I’m going to move to Mexico City for awhile to really hammer it into my brain.
I go here everyday. I call the ladies that work here “my doctoras”. They are teaching me to speak Mayan. I sent them the link to your blog entry. They will appreciate it, I am sure.
@tulumlocal–thanks for sending them the link! I wanted to, but I had no idea how to reach them. This place is easily my favorite stop in Tulum. We go there a whole bunch every time we visit. I think next time, I’m going to do a piece on Pan del Carmen. Let me know if there are any other places you recommend. I’m hoping to sneak in a trip next Christmas…if I’m lucky.
And where in Tulum Pueblo can one find Flor de Michoacan? Is there an address or nearby landmarks you can point me towards? Thanks so much. J
@Jordan, If you’re walking away from the beach, it’s on the left side. I’d say it’s toward the middle of the street. Honestly, the pueblo is very small. You’ll definitely find it. Plus, it’s very colorful. Don’t be afraid to ask another merchant if you can’t find it. I’m sure they can point you in the right direction.