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Pre-Theater Dining Downtown: The Laxy Ox Canteen Keeps Getting Better
Jun 16 2010
Just last weekend, we hit up The Lazy Ox Canteen before going to see the weirdly fantastic play 1951-2006 at the Los Angeles Theatre Center. This was the first time I’ve ever eaten by sunlight at The Lazy Ox because usually I’m taking advantage of their much-welcomed late night service (they beat The York by an hour and a half, serving their full menu until midnight thurs-sat), so it felt like a whole new experience.
The time-of-day aspect was only part of it, though. Since opening late last year, their food has gotten progressively better. Not to say that it hasn’t always been good, but while I’ve been blown away by the vibe and beer list, foodwise I’ve rarely been blown away by anything but the burger. I’ve often felt that the concepts were a little ahead of the actual execution in some of the dishes.
That was not the case this last time. All the flavors were so right on, and I was very impressed—I tried all new things, minus the burger, which is a must every time. I know it’s been described on every food blog in LA, but good grief, it’s so damn good. I love that the short rib/sirloin patty is served nearly raw in the center, so that it gets all mushed up with the smooth, butter Carmody cheese and aioli. And then the butter lettuce adds a contrasting crisp coldness. I’ve heard some smack about the bun being too thick, but I’ve got no problem with it because it keeps that marvelous mess under control.
But wait, what was I talking about? Oh, that’s right, the new stuff I tried…
First up were these Ricotta Fritters. My goodness. I mean, of course, it’s fried cheese, and fried cheese is always good, but these were so fluffy and the fact that they were sitting so delicately in honey gave them oomph I didn’t expect. You could hear the slight crunch when you bit into one.
Next was the curious sautéed radish dish. Odd in a good way, these cooked radishes maintained some firmness and spiciness to perfectly showcase the garlic and blue cheese flavor. So good.
Highland Park: You Don’t Have to Get the Burger at The York
Apr 27 2010
The York in Highland Park has one of the best burgers in LA, hands down. It’s lavished in spicy mayo, pickled onions and cheddar, all of which equal gastro-masterpiece. Especially if you have the guts to get it medium-rare.
The bun does its part too-it’s brioche, so it collapses when you pick it up. This allows it to accent the burger with the a flaky texture and a subtle sweetness, minus any overwhelming breadiness. The rocket adds a nice spicy touch.
But, sometimes, I don’t want a burger, and that’s when I’m glad they have lots of good alternatives on their chalkboard.
