I’ve always liked Malo, but I really don’t like the crowd it has been attracting. Sounds snobby, I know, but the last time I was there on a Thursday night, I had to endure a table of loud/flashy/drunk executive types, who harassed the waitress, hit on other diners and made a general ruckus. It’s depressing—like when a band you like blows up and suddenly you have to share them…with people you don’t like.
The problem is that I don’t want to give up on Malo. Even after all these years, I still crave their Ground Beef and Pickle Tacos (pictured) more than is dignified. But, if I’m spending more than a few bucks and a few minutes in a restaurant, I also crave a good vibe. And all the Habanero Creme Salsa in the world won’t make up for a bad one.
So, what’s my solution?
Brunch. I’ve been a few times now, and it’s freaking delightful. The atmosphere is laid back, service is extra attentive, and there are Bloody Marias to boot! Could you ask for more on a Sunday morning? There are even open tables on the patio. It’s completely different from the nighttime Malo.
Another high-point is this Pozole dish that’s on the brunch menu. It’s a tasty rendition of the popular soup, complete with poached eggs—like Mexican Hotpot. Lots of smoky flavor. My grandfather’s wife, a pretty traditional Mexican cook, said about this dish: “I don’t know why there are eggs in my pozole, but I like it.”
My grandfather is a Mexican dude from LA, and he was impressed by Malo’s salsa. So, maybe the astronomical price (4 for $12—Ay yi yi!) is worth it.
You can get the Cucumber Tomato Salad at night, too, but the orange-flavored dressing works better in the AM.