Lincoln Heights: Bar Fare Done Right at Barbara’s

When I informed my social circle that my Thursday afternoon plans would involve alcohol, I was met with skepticism. “What’s the occasion?” they all asked, as though one needs an excuse to go midweek drinking. But if anyone had expected me to scrounge up a reason beyond, “… Thursday?”, I would’ve had one in hand. The plan was to try out Barbara’s at the Brewery, one of the drinking establishments nestled in the Brewery Arts Complex in Lincoln Heights-just a quick hop from Downtown LA.

Barbara’s is the kind of bar that you have to quest for. Once you wend your way into the heart of the art colony, good luck picking one unassuming warehouse out from another. Had I not been led to the doorstep of Barbara’s by someone in the know, I would’ve lost at least ten minutes to aimless wandering. Rest assured, though: your efforts will be rewarded.

As a member of the Very Introverted set, I liked the low-key, early Thursday afternoon atmosphere of Barbara’s just fine, not to say that those of a more extroverted slant should shy away. The interior is split into two spaces. One of them is a windowed cafe-like space, the other is the bar, which is lit only by a motley collection of neon sculptures and signs and lined with beer tap handles, most of which appear to have been out of commission for ages.

There’s no shortage of beers at Barbara’s, and the variety of food isn’t half bad either. Between the four of us, we tried the Beachwood BBQ El Verano, the Haven Glass Elevator, the Craftsman Angeleno, and the Stone Woot Stout. The Beachwood was golden light, rounding off with a faintly bitter aftertaste; the Haven was smoky and heavy with notes of chocolate; and the Craftsman Angeleno, labeled as “tart” on the menu board, had a flavor reminiscent of ume. Clocking in at 13% ABV, the Stone was the hard hitter of the night and the winner-strong without being overbearing, each sip simmering at the end of your throat.

The kitchen at Barbara’s doesn’t open until 5PM, but the wait was worth it. The food was curated with the masses in mind, so you won’t find anything on the menu that you haven’t seen hundreds of times before. We chose three reliable standbys: zucchini fries, spinach and artichoke dip, and a ½-pound burger, topped with avocado. All three exceeded the (admittedly low) bar set by most pub fare. Covered in a light, crisp batter, the zucchini fries arrived steaming, and each bite unleashed a perfectly decadent flow of oil. While the spinach and artichoke dip wasn’t much to look at, it performed admirably on the flavor front. Slicked up with chipotle mayo, the burger tasted like a heftier version of an In-N-Out burger, which is to say, wholly satisfactory to our beer-soaked taste buds.

By the time we left at 6PM, an eclectic crowd spanning all age groups had gathered in the high-ceilinged, industrial loft space, and for good reason. Walls adorned with rotating works from local artists, strains of classic rock overriding the murmur of neighboring conversations, the brewery gives off distinct vibes of cool without sticking its nose at anyone. The next time you’ve got an open Thursday (or Wednesday, or Monday) afternoon, make your way to Barbara’s for a quality dinner and a drink.

Happy Hour is Monday through Friday from 4PM to 6PM, and drafts are $2 off.

-Iris Jong

Iris is a new writer to Eastside Food Bites. Check out her fantastic food photos at irispjong on Instagram.

Barbara’s at the Brewery
620 Moulton Ave Ste 110
Los Angeles, 90031