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Echo Park: Pupusas and Cochinita Pibil at Mayas Taco Market
Dec 26 2013Pupusas are one of those foods that I was convinced I didn’t care for. This belief had me perplexed because I love all the components, but I just had never been wowed. I am happy to say that Mayas Taco Market in Echo Park has single-handedly changed that belief.
Mayas beckons you with its brick red exterior, namesake in bold white letters, and Mexican style benches that line the front entrance. The interior of the small, humble establishment consists of 8 tables and a giant jukebox filled with Mexican Nortenos music. While also doubling as a small market with a random assortment of chips, bread, and staples, the restaurant offers a large menu of Mexican and Salvadoran cuisine. I come for two reasons: pupusas and the cochinita pibil tacos.
The pupusas come with the standard fillings: cheese; beans and cheese; loroco (Salvadorian edible flower) and cheese; and my favorite, revuelta, which consist of pork, beans, and cheese. I usually order 2 because I‘m greedy, but they’re on the larger side, so one would be enough for smaller appetites. The pupusas are made to order and come out toasty and fragrant. Inside, the salty, slightly crisp pork is enveloped by the bean and cheese mixture, which makes this combo a winning trifecta every time. The curtido (fermented cabbage salad that comes on the side) is crunchy with the right amount of vinegary-saltiness. They’re also served with a traditional non-spicy red salsa which yields a nice brightness, and a habanero salsa that’s seriously spicy, so tread lightly.
If pupusas don’t rock your boat, then the cochinita pibil tacos most definitely will. What makes their version a standout is the pork, which has a nice oregano bite, plus the meat is served in chunks as oppose to the common shreds. This method keeps the meat juicy and super tender. The tacos are topped with pickled red onions, and a generous amount of sliced avocados.
If you’re in the area on a Monday or Thursday, the pupusas are a steal for only 99 cents. Just keep in mind that the parking situation isn’t that great. There are only 3 spots, and it’s one way in and one way out, so street parking is usually best but might require a walk. On the bright side, if you work up a thirst on the walk over to Mayas, you can quench it with one of their vast selections of Mexican sodas.
-Martha Santiago
Martha is a regular contributor to Eastside Food Bites. Read more about her on our contributor’s page.
Echo Park: Artsy, Ambitious Food at Allumette
Jul 31 2013Echo Park’s Allumette, in the former Alston Yacht Club space, had been on my list for a while, so I was excited when I was invited to try it out. I’d heard some complaints, mostly about portion sizes, but I rarely encountered any kvetching about preparation and flavor. I suppose that’s because both are meticulously spot on. Each and every dish at Allumette is conceived and served with careful deliberation and a boatload of ambition—I can’t imagine that head chef Miles Thompson ever sleeps. It’s true that the portions are small (it’s billed as a tasting menu) but if you can get past that, you’re in for an artful, and wildly unique, food experience.
The menu at Allumette is divided into five sections that go from light to more substantial. Close to the top is a must-have Fried Oyster served with a creamy kimchi dressing and diced Asian pear for brightness. You should not attempt to share this small and savory treat—order your own. You can share the Ankimo, which manages to be both delicate and rich. Its base is a very smooth round of monkfish liver that sits in ponzu sauce and is topped with sea grapes. The pretty little flowers are a nice visual touch.
The seafood theme, quite prevalent at Allumette, continued with the Poached Octopus. Beluga lentils made this dish hearty while the fried egg added a certain sultriness. “But grapefruit?” you ask. Yes, it’s true. You wouldn’t expect tart citrus to work with this, but it really lifted the combination and kept it from becoming too heady.
Echo Park: Vegan Curry Potato Tacos at Xoia
Jun 26 2013I love potato tacos. A lot of people don’t, and I blame the overwhelming amount of bad potato tacos (soggy, bland, and uninspired) for misrepresenting the entire category. Perhaps my appreciation comes from the fact that I usually make mine at home, giving them an Indian twist with Chef Raghavan Iyer’s smoky yellow dal recipe. This way, I get to bypass most restaurant versions, though I am guilty of pigging out on the greasy bombs they serve over at El Acator #11 after a few drinks and under the cloak of night.
There is one potato taco that recently came onto my radar that actually gives its brethren a good name: the Mashed Curry Potatoes and Carrot Taco at Xoia Vietnamese Eats in Echo Park. This one gets it right for so many reasons. For one, the filling is flavorful thanks to the sweetness of the carrots and, of course, the savory curry, which really pops. The crunch factor is also spot on. The filling of a potato taco is unavoidably mushy, so a certain amount of crunch is necessary—the crispy tortilla and shreds of red cabbage are perfect for the task.
The finishing touches don’t miss, either. Vietnamese coriander, which is similar to cilantro, and a house-made sauce of Oaxacan crema, coconut milk and Sriracha add to the overall flavor. I think about these tacos a lot.
Not bad for $6.99.
-Valentina
Echo Park: The Bright Spot Gets Better
Mar 04 2013Drunk, ravenous and too late for anything else. For years, all three conditions had to be met for me to brave The Brite Spot. But, it’s a new day, and the classic Echo Park diner recently received a makeover by owner and habitual restaurant revamper Dana Hollister (she’s also behind renovations at Villain’s Tavern, 4100 Bar and Cliff’s Edge). The update brings new outside seating, a slightly more sparkly interior, fresher ingredients and an updated menu.
Breakfast is how I like to judge diners, so we decided to try out the new Brite Spot on a busy weekday morning. Chicken & Waffles, Brussels & Bacon Hash (yes, brussel sprouts) topped with poached eggs, and The Hangover, a scramble Chicken Andoullie sausage, potatoes and habanero pesto, all intrigued. However, we took one for the team and ordered the A Burger for Breakfast special—a turkey patty, hash browns, bacon, and fried eggs all crammed between a maple-aioli-smeared brioche bun. It was as tasty as it was ridiculous.
Echo Park: Guisados is Now Open
Feb 08 2013There’s really not much I can say about Guisados that every other blogger, restaurant reviewer, or food enthusiast in Los Angeles hasn’t already said. It’s popular, to say the least, and now there are two locations: the original in Boyle Heights and a new one in Echo Park. However, if in fact you haven’t heard, here’s the story: this family restaurant turns out glorious tacos on thick, handmade tortillas filled with meats or vegetables that hold beautiful, complex flavors.
The chickens tinga and mole are particularly good, and veggies and non-veggies alike will appreciate that even the calabasitas (a mix of squash and corn) aren’t an afterthought. Note that the cochinita pibil is ordered according to a 1-10 spicy barometer, with even the lower end capable of setting your mouth on fire, so don’t get smart. There’s always the 6 mini taco sampler if you can’t decide—it’s chef’s choice, and he’s usually right.
Lastly, don’t miss out on the drinks. I like the cantaloupe agua fresca, which is cool, refreshing and not overly sweet. Horchata lovers won’t be disappointed, and neither will jamaica enthusiasts.
-Valentina
Accursed Fruitcake: A Holiday Drink Recipe from Allston Yacht Club
Dec 24 2011Being pregnant at Christmas is a little harrowing. I really want to drink….many drinks! But, even if I can’t, I thought I’d be unselfish and share a great drink recipe from Allston Yacht Club in Echo Park with you. This Christmas/ Chanukah-ready concoction is called the Accursed Fruitcake, and it got the seal of approval from my husband, who is allowed to drink. Sigh. He says it embodies everything he loves about winter—it will make your friends and family all warm and festive.
Here’s the easy recipe:
2 oz Applejack
1 Tbs inebriated fruit*
Top with apple cider, and add a Splash of Ginger Beer.
Stir and serve in iced highball glass.
* For the inebriated fruit, you can use dried versions of any or all of following: cranberries, cherries, apricots, blueberries, peaches, candied ginger, white and dark raisins. Boil for 10 minutes. Drain and pour the fruit into a container. Add ¼ cup of sugar for every pound—a pound will make a ton of drinks. Now just add a few cinnamon sticks, a couple of cloves, and allspice. Cover with brandy and let sit until needed.
And, if your not up for making your own drinks, Allston is serving up 6 holiday cocktails until December 30th.
-Valentina
Echo Park: Sneak Peek of Mohawk Bend’s Food & Drinks
Jul 20 2011
Long anticipated or dreaded, depending on your point of view, Mohawk Bend is finally opening in Echo Park later this month. The “drinking and eating outpost” has taken over the former Ramona Theater space next door to Elf restaurant and will be serving a mostly vegan menu along with some vegetarian and meaty dishes.
Last night I attended Mohawk Bend’s media preview party, and I have to say I was pretty impressed with the transformation. Designed by Spacecraft, the once-forlorn theater is now an impressive modern space, boasting high ceilings, patio seating, skylights, exposed brick, vintage beer signs, and an atrium-like room with long communal tables and a fireplace.
Food-wise, it wasn’t bad. While I wasn’t blown away by anything, I did enjoy most of what I ate. High marks go to the Petite Sirah dipping sauce that came with the Fire Roasted Artichoke and The Flash Gordon Salad with flash-grilled Little Gem lettuce (similar to hearts of romaine), grapefruit, avocado, pickled onions and dill dressing. Owner Tony Yanow says the locavore/organic menu will change weekly to reflect the seasonal comings and goings of produce.
Echo Park: Xoia Has a Birthday, You Get Free Tacos
Jun 24 2011My first meal at Xoia Vietnamese Eats elicited a mixed review. I had nothing but love for their beef pho and salsa, but I was a little down on some of their other specialties. In the year since, however, the Mexican-tinged Vietnamese restaurant has really thrived, becoming a worthy mainstay on Echo Park’s Sunset Blvd.
While Xoia’s original menu has come into its own—their Lemongrass Pork Carnitas Bahn Mi even made the Gastronomer’s list of LA’s best Vietnamese sandwiches—their new dishes have rounded things out rather impressively. I’m crazy for their very addictive and outrageously delicious Bunrria, a birria-meets-bún bò Huế dish, complete with rice noodles, slow-pressure steamed red chile beef, and a smokey broth made from said beef. I swear, I dream about that stuff.
If you haven’t given Xoia a try (and even if you have), tomorrow would be a good time to stop in. Xoia will be celebrating its first birthday and you’ll get a free Pho Beef Taco or Vietnamese Coffee when you order an entrée. Yeah!
-Valentina
Echo Park: A Big Slab of Pizza from Two Boots
Mar 09 2011Restaurant chains aren’t always bad. My proof? Two Boots Pizza. Mostly scattered around New York City for the last 20 something years, the pizzeria chain’s Los Angeles station has become a mainstay on Echo Park’s Sunset Blvd. It’s taken me awhile to get myself there—two years to be exact—but as of this weekend, I’m a fan.
Pizza is a touchy subject, but I have no beef with Two Boots. The giant-slab slices (a pizza style that’s hard to come by in LA) have a crispy crust with a scattering of cornmeal grit—a pizza quality I love. As far as comparisons go, I preferred Two Boot’s lighter, less chewy crust to the bagel version at Abbot’s Pizza in Venice, another well-respected proprietor of great big slices.
Echo Park: Terrible Service but Good Food at Mooi
Nov 24 2010“Is this some kind of performance art?”
That’s the question Josh asked as we watched the staff at Mooi try—with the urgency of molasses—to seat a restaurant full of people for a 9 o’clock pre-fixe dinner service. The minutes ticked, some poor girl fell off the rickety wrought-iron chair she was made to sit in, and yet-to-be-seated patrons looked forlorn as we all waited for the restaurant to get its shit together.
It was a weird scene, but I wasn’t surprised. The reviews on Yelp, which rail on the aloof service, have been scathing (and I mean scathing) since Mooi opened last spring. Still, I’d heard great things about the food, and boy, do I love a pre-fixe. Plus, there have been reports that time might be running out for the raw/vegan restaurant, and I wanted a taste.
I’m glad I got one because the 4-course Italian meal by chef Anne Lee of New York’s Pure Food and Wine and Mooi owner Stephen Hauptfuhr really made up for the evening’s ramshackle start.









