Echo Park: Artsy, Ambitious Food at Allumette

Echo Park’s Allumette, in the former Alston Yacht Club space, had been on my list for a while, so I was excited when I was invited to try it out. I’d heard some complaints, mostly about portion sizes, but I rarely encountered any kvetching about preparation and flavor. I suppose that’s because both are meticulously spot on. Each and every dish at Allumette is conceived and served with careful deliberation and a boatload of ambition—I can’t imagine that head chef Miles Thompson ever sleeps. It’s true that the portions are small (it’s billed as a tasting menu) but if you can get past that, you’re in for an artful, and wildly unique, food experience.

The menu at Allumette is divided into five sections that go from light to more substantial. Close to the top is a must-have Fried Oyster served with a creamy kimchi dressing and diced Asian pear for brightness. You should not attempt to share this small and savory treat—order your own. You can share the Ankimo, which manages to be both delicate and rich. Its base is a very smooth round of monkfish liver that sits in ponzu sauce and is topped with sea grapes. The pretty little flowers are a nice visual touch.

The seafood theme, quite prevalent at Allumette, continued with the Poached Octopus. Beluga lentils made this dish hearty while the fried egg added a certain sultriness. “But grapefruit?” you ask. Yes, it’s true. You wouldn’t expect tart citrus to work with this, but it really lifted the combination and kept it from becoming too heady.

The Szechuan Pork Dumpling, sprinkled with lush salmon roe occupies an unexpected hearty-luxe space. Spicy black vinegar and tarragon add fantastic, savory dimension.

In the midst of all this Asian influence comes pasta. A standout is the Cavatelli with uni ragu. The house-made pasta was tender and perfect, the uni ragu balanced precisely by an earthy-sweet English pea purée—and, seriously, who knew a pea purée could be so dang good? That stuff is not just for babies! Mushrooms, one of the chef’s apparent fixations, also make an much welcomed appearance in this dish.

The meal came to a crescendo with a beautifully plated lamb dish (pictured up top). The meat was as good as it gets with wild strawberries, lemon curd and the always on-time burrata worked like three exclamation points. We were lucky to get the last portion of the night.

Cocktails should not be missed, specifically the sherry-based Le Système Solaire. I like the sweet nuttiness of sherry, and the addition of Vermouth made this drink drink easy to sip. Also lovely was the Last Ango, sweet and ladylike with a mix of bitters, rum, and orgeat pineapple syrup. I’m usually a wine drinker, but bartender Serena Herrick made me change my ways for this meal.

I think I’m going back for my birthday.

Note: Allumette is offering a small bites menu from 6PM to close, Tuesday-Saturday. You can only get it at the bar, but it seems like a good way to get a taste.

-Valentina